globeandmail.com: A bookish baker's = dozen

COOKBOOKS

A bookish baker's dozen

December 1, 2007

Continued from Page 1=85

Now in her late 80s, Chang is a woman of impeccable taste, who always = wears=20 Chanel and pearls. She has recounted the story of her fascinating life, = and=20 given us the gift of 75 easily accomplished recipes for home cooking, = some from=20 the original Mandarin.

COOK WITH JAMIE

My Guide To Making You

a Better Cook

Print Edition - Section Front

Enlarge=20 Image

By Jamie Oliver, Hyperion Books, 447 pages, $41.95

I have a great affection for Jamie Oliver. He works hard, he cares = about his=20 family and he is devoted to making life better for kids, especially kids = from=20 dodgy backgrounds.

This book is a kind of project, too. With humour, mouthiness and=20 straight-shooting style, it is infused with his Jamie personality. He = tries to=20 teach us all the basics of good cooking. And he succeeds admirably. The = book is=20 a pleasure to read, you learn something on each page, and the recipes = turn out=20 well (although I found some oven times to be off). The food is bold and = the=20 recipes easy to accomplish. Truly refreshing. For new cooks and good = cooks.

THE ART OF SIMPLE FOOD

Notes, Lessons, and Recipes From a Delicious Revolution

By Alice Waters, Clarkson Potter, 405 pages, $44

A serene book written by the icon of the fresh sustainable food = movement. She=20 has done more to change the awareness and the eating patterns of = Americans than=20 any other food writer. This book is beautifully written, full of = information to=20 make you a better cook and full of lovely fresh, local recipes. Probably = easier=20 to use if you are in California, with its abundance, but we can all make = those=20 adjustments. Some of the recipes are fussy (the mushroom ragout where = you dice=20 the mushrooms after cooking), but they do make sense.

CIOPPINO'S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL

A Lifetime of Excellence in the Kitchen

By Pino Posteraro, Douglas & McIntyre, 234 pages, $60

Pino Posteraro is one of the finest chefs I have had the pleasure to = dine=20 with. He owns Cioppino's restaurant in Vancouver. His food is simple, = light and=20 incredibly tasty, and he now has gathered his years of experience and = put them=20 into this visually stunning book.

Posteraro is a perfectionist, and although the recipes look simple on = the=20 page, there are no shortcuts with his meals. Still, they are worth the=20 challenge, as the recipes work well and the final results never = disappoint. Be=20 judicious in the use of some of the seasonings. Taste as you go. His = risottos=20 are sublime. The book is all in metric, although there is a conversion = chart.=20 This is a book for the foodie who doesn't mind spending time in the = kitchen.

ONE POT ITALIAN COOKING

More Than 100 Easy Authentic Recipes

By Massimo Capra, Whitecap, 192 pages, $29.95

Chef and co-owner of Mistura restaurant in Toronto, as well as a chef = on TV's=20 Restaurant Makeover, Capra has done a nifty one-pot Italian = cookbook. His=20 warmth and graciousness come through in his food. If you love Italian = food and=20 big flavours, this is a great book. The flavours are interesting and = pack a=20 punch. His bigoli with salsa was rich and had superb mouth feel. His = risotto=20 (especially the beet) and braised lamb ribs, which are restaurant = favourites,=20 are intriguing.

The recipes seem straightforward and uncomplicated, but without much=20 explanation about cooking methods, timing or ingredient substitutions. = You will=20 need to be an experienced, intuitive cook.

THE YOUNG MAN & THE SEA

Recipes & Crispy Fish Tales From Esca

By David Pasternack and Ed Levine, Artisan Books, 253 pages, = $43.95

Esca is one of my favourite New York restaurants. You taste the fresh = flavours of the sea because of chef David Pasternack's passion for = simplicity=20 and natural taste.

A brilliant chef and a fanatic fisherman, he understands the catching = and=20 cooking of fish. Pasternack originated the trend for "crudo" - raw, = pristine=20 seafood flavoured with light vinaigrettes or lemon juice - a kind of = Italian=20 sashimi which is now popular around the Western world. There are several = fine=20 crudo recipes in the book.

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